I Used Knit Fabric on a Woven Pattern-Here's What I Learned

            One of my goals for this year is to use up a lot of my fabric stash I’ve “built up” over the years. It’s gotten a little out of hand. And within all that? Lots of knits.

            (It didn’t help that I kept finding cute knits when I was pregnant).

            When I found this green floral knit, I knew it was going to become the perfect summer romper. (tutorial coming soon!) But to bring my vision to life, I had to use a pattern made for woven fabric. 

            To be honest, this isn’t my first time ignoring a pattern suggestion and doing my own thing. It could be because I taught myself to sew. But I wanted to go through some of the tips I used- and what I learned-so I can help you sew knits using a woven pattern too.

But First!

            Let’s quickly talk about the difference between knit and woven fabrics. 

            Knit fabrics are stretchy-meaning when you pull, it moves with you. The amount of stretch differs depending on the fabric, but in general, they should have some give. Because of that stretch, it does make it a little more difficult to sew since it tends to shift and curl while you're working.

                   Examples: Jersey knit, rib-knit, spandex-basically anything that stretches.

            Woven fabrics, on the other hand, don’t stretch. They’re very sturdy, which makes it easier to sew since they stay put and hold their shape.

            Examples: cotton, flannel, denim, muslin.

            Patterns are usually designed with one of these fabrics in mind, some are even more specific in their suggestions, so swapping takes a little adjustment, which I’ll help you with in this post!

Pattern Used:

McCall’s M7626 version C (this pattern calls for woven fabrics only).

The 3 Things I Learned:

1. Use a Stretch Needle

The brand of stretch needles I use

Using a stretch needle is super important. Using a regular needle can damage your fabric or cause skipped stitches, which can cause your outfit to fall apart.

Something to also keep in mind: when working with stretch fabrics, you’ll most likely use all purpose thread, which isn’t stretchy. To make your stitches move with the fabric, you need to use a stretch stitch. The most common one is the zig zag stitch. Even with a stretch needle, you have to adjust your stitches to move with your fabric. Otherwise, they’ll snap.

Most machines should have at least one option for the zigzag stitches.

Now if you want to cheat (like I did), you can also use elastic thread. It stretches slightly, making it usable for straight stitches. Since my project included a lot of straight seams, I used it to help it stretch and give me a cleaner finish.

I used the Eloflex thread for my knit project.

2. Size Down

With wovens, it’s common to size up and then take things in as needed. But with knits, they’re more forgiving that you can (and often should) size down. 

I sized down two sizes-but that was because I already had that sized cut out and didn’t want to do any math! It worked for me, but I’d recommend only sizing down one size to test the fit.

3. Don't Skip Interfacing When Structure Matters!

            So small disclaimer: this tip depends on the project.

            In mine, I did not use interfacing, mostly because I didn’t have a stretchable interfacing (remember-I’m trying to use what I’ve got first!). I also knew that my fabric was thick enough to hold its shape without help. 

  

The topstitching.

            But I didn’t count on myself using a topstitch to attach my straps to the bodice. I chose to topstitch instead of the pattern instructions mostly out of laziness. I didn’t realize that without interfacing, my fabric would stretch and fold over itself. Even though I wasn’t pulling it, sewing that close to the edge caused it to fold under slightly.

Lesson learned: if your knit is lightweight or the area needs structure (like straps or collar), interfacing is worth it.

Final Thoughts

My Knit Romper!

          I love how it turned out! It is probably the softest outfit I own. While there are a couple mistakes, they’re things I can live with. I was worried the back pockets wouldn’t be usable, but they feel very sturdy. The romper doesn’t hug too tightly, drapes nicely, and is breathable- perfect for summer, even with two layers on top. 

Want to see exactly how I made it? Watch my YouTube video for the full tutorial (coming soon)!

And I’d love to know—will this romper be making its way onto your summer sewing list?

Don’t be afraid to drop your questions below!