DIY Babydoll Summer Dress | Pattern Mash-Up

As I’m creating my summer wardrobe for the year, I determined I needed something that screamed summer. Something light, cute, and perfect for enjoying the summer weather. I really like the babydoll look and knew that I had everything to make my own. 

Don't forget to check out my Youtube video where I document my process too!

Materials

• Lili Bralette Top by CinnomonDollCrochet

• I got this in a pattern pack for a really good price on Etsy, but any similar pattern will do.

• Free options:

• Bralette Top by AnielskaAniela

• Ellie Bralette by NH Patterns

• Circle Skirt Pattern

• Any circle skirt pattern will do. I used the pattern pieces from McCall’s M7654 (just the front and back skirt pieces). This is always my go-to, especially since the length is perfect!

• Free options:

• Drafting a Full Circle Skirt by Sewspiratrice
• 6 Paneled Full Circle Skirt by Tianascloset
• Full Circle Skirt by Sewspiratrice

• 2 yards of a cotton fabric

• 2 yards of a lining fabric

• 4-6 inch zipper 

• Pins

• Ruler

• Chalk

• Scissors

• Safety pin/Loop turner

• Optional: bra pads

• I used the ones you get from sports bras.

Steps

1. Cut Out Your Pattern Pieces.

Take your measurements and figure out what size you are. For me, I cut a 30E for the bralette and a size 12 on the skirt. 

2. Cut Out Your Pieces from Fabric.

Alterations Made:

• You’re going to cut the same pieces on the main fabric and the lining for most of it. The patterns help guide you but there are some changes I made to better fit the vision for the dress I had. 
• The circle skirt I altered to be half an inch lower on the waistband, making it bigger, and making the lining skirt 2 inches shorter than the main fabric.
• I chopped the waistband in half since it was longer than what I needed for the dress. 

1. If you’re using the same pattern pieces as I am, you should have:

1. Main fabric

1. 4 bra cup, 1 waistband (½ the original length), 4 ties, 2 straps, 1 front skirt, 2 back skirt, multiple strips for the ruffle.

2. Lining

1. 4 bra cups, 1 waistband (½ the original length), 1 front skirt (2 inches shorter), 2 back skirt (2 inches shorter)

3. Pin and Sew the Bralette Top 

• This is the most complicated part of the whole project. Take your time, it can be confusing. 
• Sew the straps (right sides together) and turn inside out. Iron.
• Sew the Bra Cups:
• Take 2 of the same fabric of bra cups and pin right sides (the pretty side) together.
• Then sew the curve all the way down. Do that 3 more times.
• You will end up with 4 completed bra cups- 2 of the main fabric and 2 of the lining. 
• Iron the seams open. If you do not do this, it will look weird when you try it on. 
• OPTIONAL: If you’re going to add the bra pads, you’re going to attach it to the wrong side (the side with the ironed seam) of the lining fabric. Place it so that the pad is pushed the wrong way (opposite of it’s original position). Place the center of the pad along the seam of the lining and sew on the line. Do the same for the other.
• Assemble the Bra cups
• Pin 1 bra cup of the main fabric and 1 of the lining together, right sides together.
• Place the strap between the two layers and have ¼ in coming out the top.
• Sew along the edges, except the bottom. So only 3 edges should be sewn.
• Do the other and flip.
• Press seams
• Sew the ties, right side together, except for the part that attaches to the waistband. Turn inside out and iron. 
• Sew the ties to the main fabric of the waistband (DO NOT ADD THE WAISTBAND LINING YET)
• Add the Bra Ups to the Waistband
• Find the center point of the waistband and put your bra cups on either side of the band and baste.
• Then TRY IT ON! This is critical as this will tell you whether it’s going to fit in the final product. I had to overlap my cups because they were hanging off the edge of the waistband. 
• When I tried it on, I had to adjust it to overlap slightly more, but it would have been more work if I hadn’t done it now. 
• Once you have your bra cups where you want them, put the right sides of your waistband and cups together.
• Put the waistband lining on, facing the bra cup lining, lining it up with the seam and sew together.
• Fold over and iron. 
• To prevent the edges (near the ties) from fraying, fold the edge over (the leftover) and stitch down. 
• Then you’re done with the top!

3. Pin and Sew the Skirt

• Sew the side skirts to the front skirts for both the main fabric and the lining. 
• Hem the lining using your favorite method. I either use a serger, or in this case, I did a rolled hem.
• Sew a baste along the top edge of both skirts and gather until it will fit your waistband, plus 4in on both sides so we can connect the zipper. (Make sure to try on and that it fits. If you can’t connect the skirt pieces behind you, adjust to give you extra fabric off the waistband.)
• Similarly to how we did the waistband earlier, have the top and skirt folded to have right sides meet and lay the lining skirt on the wrong side of the top and line the top of the lining skirt to the seam. Sew. 
• Adjust so both skirts are down and fold the raw edges inward and add the zipper. Sew the rest of the skirt together for both the main fabric and lining.

3. Pin, Gather, and Sew the Ruffle

• Depending on how fluffy you want your ruffle will determine how long you’ll cut it. You’ll figure this out by measuring the length of your skirt's edge and how long you want it. 
• My skirt’s edge measured 154in and I wanted it 4in tall. Usually people multiple their edge length by 1.5 for a fuller look. If you want less of a full look, I would multiply it by 1.25. So 154x1.5 is 231. I rounded up since I needed to cut up several pieces and wanted to have an even number. 
• I cut 5 strips that were 48in long and 4in tall. 
• I sewed the edges together and rolled the hem.
• I sewed 1 basted line along the top edge to create the ruffles. 2 lines of baste is recommended, but I was lazy and did 1. Pull the back thread and even distribute the gathers. This part takes the longest out of it all. 
• Once you have all your gathers, pin it to the skirt and sew. Meet the edges of the ruffle and connect. 
• Congrats! You’ve finished!

Overall Thoughts

I LOVED how this turned out. This is my favorite make so far this year. I love how cute and flowy it is. It's perfect for summer! I'm definitely going to make this again, probably with pockets. Let me know if you try this- I'd love to see your version!